TURKISH DELIGHT
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Philly Magazine - 4/04
TURKISH DELIGHT KONAK, THE RECENT reincarnation of Voorhees's Authentic Turkish Cuisine, doesn't fit the image of Old City. The space isn't long, narrow and sleek, lined with trendy types sipping signature cocktails: the menu isn't full of fusion options. And the parking is free. It's a good thing customers aren't on the clock, because Konak's service-while polite and helpful in describing (and pronouncing) the unfamiliar entrees-can be leisurely and haphazard. Appetizers arrive before water; wine, after the entrees: the pita bread and assorted condiments I covet on a nearby table, not at all. But a seat in the large, high-ceilinged, spring 'sunshine' yellow dining room-a world away from the empty bistro-style tables near the bar-is a soothing place to wait. And eventually your Turkish-garbed waiter will bring crisp, flaky phyllo pockets of spinach and feta; eggplant stuffed with peppers and pine nuts: and the chef's special, a hummus and smoky-spicy pastrami plate dotted with bursting grape tomatoes. Each appetizer is a small taste of Turkey's unique flavors, somewhere between Greek and Middle Eastern. When entrees like Emperor's fish (delicate tilapia grilled with olive oil, spinach and pine nuts) and kebabs of every variety-even mussels emerge from behind tile ornate wooden kitchen doors, followed by syrupy desserts and Turkish coffee, you'll forget about the delay. -April White